Tile roofing that uses battens, counter-battens, or has a naturally occurring air space because of the shape of the tile, makes adding a radiant barrier very simple. The main goal is to get the foil down first/before the battens (if applicable), then continue the installation via the normal process. Remember, every radiant barrier needs an air gap in order to work properly to block radiant heat; a ½" air space works fine so as long as you have that, you're good to go.

When you have an air gap under the tile (or created by the battens), this is what enables the foil to work as a radiant barrier, using REFLECTIVITY to reflect 97% of radiant heat coming in through the roof from passing through the foil and in to the area below the foil/the living space. Aim for a ½" air gap or more for your foil to work properly. Remember, the air space does not have to be vented (though this is helpful in cooling off your roof), just as long as there is an air space, the foil will reflect the heat away. 

Your result is a structure (home or a commercial building) that is significantly cooler inside and easier to keep cool on hot, sunny days. No other insulation product can offer you the same benefits as a radiant barrier!

For a curved tile (like Spanish clay tile) your installation layering looks like this (coming from the roof down toward the interior of the building):

  • Curved tiles
  • ½" or bigger air gap created by shape of the tile
  • RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment All-in-One
  • Secondary waterproofing membrane
  • Decking
  • Attic/Etc.

For a tile roof that uses a batten system, layering looks like this (coming from the roof down toward the interior of the building):

  • Tiles
  • ½" or bigger air space created by battens/furring strips
  • RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment All-in-One
  • Secondary waterproofing layer
  • Decking
  • Attic/Etc.
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